
Let’s not pretend for a minute that cooking is easy. Well… cooking is easy. But let’s not pretend that learning to cook well is easy, because it’s not. To cook well you need to learn a very specific sets of skills, and gain enough experience applying those skills to elevate yourself above the average sausage-burner.
What this requires is time, effort, and decent instruction, and if you’re unable to commit to or access any of these things then your ability will never rise, ever. Alternately, if you’re an idiot and can’t learn, then you’ll also not ever acquire the skills. But that’s not what we’re here to talk about.
That’s pretty much the case with anything in life, isn’t it? If you have no resources then you can never get ahead. Access to time. Access to training. These are the things that allow us to develop and grow. Effort is the only one of the three components of development that I as an individual have control over.
I mention these things because of the recent kerfuffle in the internet over an article published about Jamie Oliver’s new show. In a nutshell, Oliver visits people’s homes and sees that a lot of Britons’ culinary skills extend to making a cup of tea, and/or purchasing highly processed sugars from the shop. What is outrageous about the people depicted in Oliver’s show is their apparent inability to make an effort to learn how to feed themselves adequately, let alone well. Without seeing the show it’s difficult to tell, but you get the impression from the Guardian article that we’re talking about monkeys who only make it to the low-hanging fruit.
And in an age where food has never been cheaper and easier to get, that’s nothing less than a tragedy.
It appears natural at this point to cast about for someone to blame. Someone must be responsible for these people learning about the basics of life and nutritional tidbits like “an apple is better than a bag of sugar”. In a place like New Zealand the blame eventually settles on “the gubbermint”. Poor people can’t feed themselves properly because they haven’t been educated right. The middle classes don’t feed themselves because taxation is forcing families to work two jobs to make ends meet. The very wealthy eat badly because flash restaurants don’t always serve healthy options between the foams and the other stuff.
Well, personally I’m not convinced by partisan arguments, and I’m going to go out on a limb and blame everyone. And yes dear reader, that includes you.
People eat crap because you let them! You sit there and let people gorge themselves on processed fats and sugars! You watch them stand outside buildings and smoke cigarettes that sap vitamin C and suppress normal appetites! I could go on. But I won’t.
But in all seriousness. Diet has become the preserve of the individual, and when someone makes bad choices we let them because it’s their business. And this probably isn’t an entirely bad thing per se. Diet has become so incredibly diverse that if we all gave each other advice all the time we’d drive ourselves nuts. Frankly, the last thing I need is constant badgering by radical vegans….
On the other hand though, there’s little to say that we all can’t put an emphasis on thinking and talking about food. What I see when I look at some Western societies (including ours) is patchy societal passion about food. Everybody loves to eat, and if you have money you will always pay someone to make you a delicious variety of ‘stuff’. But the passion to learn about how to do that for yourself is lacking. It seems that it wasn’t that the woman in Olivers’ show – who got obese on chips and chocolate – didn’t love food, it was that she thought she didn’t have the resources to buy the food she actually wanted (or she didn’t have resources to find out what she’d actually like). If she were rich she’d likely still be a great lazy cow, but one who gorged herself on foie gras.
This leaves me thinking that the tragedy of the people Oliver is depicting isn’t one of money. You can still eat healthily on a very low income (though not necessarily in volume). The tragedy is that they’re not participants in a society that routinely values making an effort to learn how to make the culinary most of what they have. After all, why make the effort when you’re told that you can get by with takeaways? And that is why I blame you. You, and I, need to make a society where people feel pressure to simply think about food. Their choices are their own, but involvement in the food chain needs to be greater than just opening your gob and bunging something out of a machine into it, like clowns at a carnival being stuffed with a plastic nothing…
9 October, 2008 at 9:20 pm
I don’t know how much you know about Jamie Oliver’s “Ministry of Food” programme, but he blames us too.
He doesn’t just teach people how to make a cheap spag-bol, but he demands that people go on to teach the recipe to a couple of their friends, and so on.
Another thing I got from the first episode of the series – a lot of these takeaway scoffing people know they’re not eating well, but they don’t know where to start. They need someone to give them a gentle nudge in the right direction, and that something any one of us could do.
9 October, 2008 at 10:48 pm
Amongst lots of other things, it’s made me aware of having been born lucky, with parents, and in particular a mother, who taught me how to cook, garden, knit, crochet, sew – all skills that I am determined to pass, and am passing on to my children.
Teaching another person – a little tricky if I only ever come into contact with similarly highly educated, middle class families. I’m not quite sure where to start with that one.
10 October, 2008 at 12:02 am
[...] to get people to cook” theme has been picked up by another friend, Che, at Object Dart. I blame you, he says. He argues that it’s not necessarily wealth that makes the difference, but the sort [...]
10 October, 2008 at 5:59 am
funny you should say that, i’ve already drawn wry smiles from second chef for suggesting that i might do the same.
but… but… changing the world is just so damn hard
10 October, 2008 at 7:03 am
Yeah, we’re all waiting for the great leap forward.
10 October, 2008 at 8:00 am
unfortunately I don’t think “not learning” is limited to cooking
10 October, 2008 at 8:39 am
The industrial revolution and the social dislocation that has followed ever since prevents poor and working class people from passing on whatever nutritional wisdom they ever possessed. Interchangeable labour units are not supposed to have time for family ties and should be discouraged from forming them, lest they come to value anything other than money and immediate gratification.
Furthermore, when your life is dull and boring and your prospects are crap, you too will eat delicious chips rather than boring vegetables.
Karl Marx and Samuel Johnson would both agree: bourgeois finger-wagging at the pleasures of the poor is pointless and inhumane.
10 October, 2008 at 1:15 pm
Not to mention I swear they put heroin in KFC fries.
10 October, 2008 at 3:16 pm
Jeez, it would be a mass Darwin Award for all those who starved to death if the supermarkets and cafes all closed.
10 October, 2008 at 3:58 pm
“The very wealthy eat badly because flash restaurants don’t always serve healthy options between the foams and the other stuff.”
Um, actually the wealthy don’t usually eat badly. Because flash restaurants almost always *do* sell healthy options.
Top-line cooking emphasises bringing out the taste of fresh, high quality ingredients. Lean cuts, lots of fresh fruit and veg. That doesn’t mean every option on the menu are healthy, but most are.
Shoving lots of fat, salt and sugar on is a cheap way of tarting up taste avoiding needing fancy cooking and fresh ingredients.
10 October, 2008 at 4:18 pm
I’m with you on this one Che.
10 October, 2008 at 7:57 pm
Damnit George, what kind of socialist are you pal? I was hoping you’d be with me!
11 October, 2008 at 6:47 am
hmmm… i’m not demanding that people don’t eat food they enjoy. quite the contrary. people should enjoy whatever they like. as i say, people’s choices are their own.
what i was saying is that society should place higher value on engagement with food, the food chain, and food preparation. if you want to get all marxist then i’m talking bourdieu and social capital. access to food knowledge should be a social capital of very high value, instead of “how big are my jugs”, and “i drive a BMW”.
15 October, 2008 at 7:33 am
[...] 15 October 2008 · No Comments Given recent discussions about food, I thought that it must surely be time for some baking blogging. Chocolate sponge roll [...]